roomoutsideuk
17th June, 2026

What Is a Glass Veranda? A Plain-English Guide (2026)

What Is a Glass Veranda? A Plain-English Guide (2026) | Room Outside
All-Glass Room guide

What Is a Glass Veranda? A Plain-English Guide

A glass veranda is a sheltered outdoor room with a glass roof and sliding glass walls. Learn what it is, the types available, who it suits and how to get one.

Updated 17 June 2026 Plain-English guide Seasonal outdoor living
Room Outside guide

A glass veranda is a sheltered outdoor living room built from a slim aluminium frame, a glass roof and, usually, sliding glass walls. It sits against your home or stands in the garden, letting you enjoy your patio in comfort across spring, summer and autumn — open to the garden in warm weather, and closed against wind and rain when you need it. It’s a single-glazed outdoor space designed for seasonal use, rather than a heated, insulated room you’d use every day in winter.

A modern glass veranda is also one of the most cost-effective ways to add usable outdoor living space. Because it’s a single-glazed, seasonal structure rather than a heated, insulated room, it can often be created with far less cost, disruption and building work than a traditional extension — no major foundations and no lengthy build. Be clear, though: a glass veranda is a sheltered outdoor living space for spring, summer and autumn, and it serves a different purpose than a fully insulated extension. If you need a warm room to use every day in winter, an insulated extension is the better choice; if you want elegant seasonal shelter and a closer connection to the garden, a glass veranda is ideal.

At Room Outside, we’ve designed and installed glazed structures for over 50 years, and our glass veranda is the All-Glass Room. This plain-English guide explains exactly what a glass veranda is, what it’s made of, the types available, what it isn’t, the common mistakes to avoid, and how to tell whether it’s right for you. If you already know it’s the kind of space you want, you can jump straight to the All-Glass Room glass veranda page or download the brochure.

3 seasons where a glass veranda can make your patio feel more useful.
Modern glass veranda creating a sheltered outdoor living space
01 / Guide

Quick answer: what is a glass veranda?

In the simplest terms, a glass veranda is a roofed outdoor structure, glazed with a glass roof and often glass walls, that creates a bright, sheltered room on your patio or in your garden. The roof keeps the rain off and lets the light in; the sliding glass walls let you open the space up on a fine day or close it down when the weather turns. Because it’s single-glazed and not insulated, it’s built for seasonal comfort and shelter — extending the time you can spend outdoors — rather than for year-round, heated living.

That one idea — sheltered, seasonal, outdoor — is the thread that runs through everything else in this guide.

02 / Guide

What a glass veranda is made of

A quality glass veranda is built from a handful of well-chosen materials, each doing a specific job.

The frame. Most modern glass verandas use a powder-coated aluminium frame. Aluminium is strong, light and rust-resistant, which lets the frame stay slim while still spanning wide openings with minimal posts. That matters for a glass veranda, because the whole appeal is light and an open view — you don’t want bulky framing in the way. Aluminium is also low-maintenance and holds its finish well, typically offered in neutral colours such as white, grey or black.

The roof. The roof is the defining feature. A good glass veranda uses reinforced laminated safety glass, which is designed to stay intact if it’s ever damaged, and which floods the space with daylight in a way a solid or polycarbonate roof can’t match. The roof is pitched and fitted with integral guttering so rainwater is channelled away neatly.

The walls. This is where verandas vary most. Many glass verandas use frameless-look sliding glass panels that run along a track, so you can open one side fully, partially enclose the space, or close it completely. Single glazing is standard for this type of structure, because the goal is shelter and light rather than the thermal performance of an insulated room.

The finishing details. The better verandas include thoughtful extras as standard — for example, integrated LED lighting set neatly into the structure, so the room works into the evening as well as during the day.

If you’d like to see exactly how a premium one is specified — frame finishes, glazing, lighting and layout options — the All-Glass Room product page sets it all out, and the brochure lets you compare choices at your own pace.

Glass veranda detail showing the aluminium frame and glazed outdoor living space
03 / Guide

How a glass veranda works

The clever part of a glass veranda is its flexibility, and it’s worth picturing how you’d actually use it day to day.

On a warm, still day, you slide the glass walls back and the space becomes an open, shaded extension of the patio — you’re effectively outside, with a roof overhead keeping the sun manageable and the light beautiful. When a breeze picks up, or a shower rolls in, you slide the walls closed and the same space becomes a sheltered room with the garden still in full view through the glass. In the evening, the integrated lighting takes over, and the veranda becomes a calm, lit space for dinner or a drink.

Across the milder months, you simply tune the level of enclosure to the day. That adaptability is the whole point: a glass veranda doesn’t lock you into being fully indoors or fully exposed. It gives you a comfortable middle ground that the British weather usually denies you.

What it doesn’t do is behave like a heated indoor room in the depths of winter. Single glazing provides shelter, not insulation, so on a cold January day a glass veranda will keep the rain and wind off but won’t feel warm without added heating. Understanding that distinction up front is the key to being happy with one.

All Glass Room veranda open to the garden for seasonal outdoor living
04 / Guide

The different types of veranda

"Veranda" is a broad word, so it helps to know the main variations you’ll come across.

Open-sided verandas. The simplest form is essentially a roof on posts — a glazed or solid canopy over a patio, open on the sides. It provides overhead shelter and shade but little protection from wind or driving rain. It’s the most affordable option and suits people who mainly want cover from sun and showers.

Verandas with fixed glass sides. A step up adds fixed glass panels to one or more sides, giving more shelter and a stronger sense of an enclosed room, while keeping the view clear. These offer good protection but less flexibility than a sliding system.

Enclosable glass verandas with sliding walls. The most versatile — and what most people now mean by a "glass veranda" — uses sliding glass wall panels that open and close. This gives you the full range, from fully open to fully sheltered, and is the type best suited to making the most of changeable weather. It’s the approach Room Outside takes with the All-Glass Room.

Wall-mounted versus freestanding. A veranda can be attached to the house, which creates a natural flow from indoors to out, or it can stand alone as a freestanding structure elsewhere in the garden — a destination in its own right. The right choice depends on your layout and how you want to use the space.

Material options. While aluminium dominates the modern market, verandas can also be built in timber or uPVC. Timber offers a traditional look but needs ongoing maintenance; uPVC can be cheaper but tends to use bulkier frames and shorter spans, which suits a light, contemporary glass veranda less well. For most homeowners wanting a sleek, low-maintenance glass veranda, aluminium is the natural choice.

Not sure which type suits your home? That’s exactly what a tailored quote is for — our team will help you weigh up the options around your patio, garden and budget.

05 / Guide

What a glass veranda is not

This is where a lot of the confusion comes from, so it’s worth being precise. A glass veranda is single-glazed and built for seasonal shelter. It is not the same as several products it’s often confused with:

  • It is not a conservatory. A conservatory is a fully glazed, insulated, year-round room that forms part of the house, with double or triple glazing and heating.
  • It is not an orangery. An orangery is a more substantial, insulated extension with brick or rendered piers and a glazed lantern roof, again for everyday year-round use.
  • It is not a glass box extension. A frameless glass box extension is a structural-glass, insulated, architectural extension built into the home.
  • It is not an insulated garden room or home office, which are designed for warm, year-round use.

The simplest way to hold the difference in mind: a conservatory, orangery, glass box and insulated garden room are all rooms of the house — heated and used all year. A glass veranda is a sheltered part of the garden — single-glazed and used across the milder seasons. Both are excellent; they just answer different needs. If you’d like a hand deciding which is right for you, our team is happy to talk it through.

06 / Guide

Glass veranda, aluminium veranda, glass room: the same thing?

Part of what makes this topic confusing is that the market uses several names for broadly the same product. Here’s the plain-English version.

  • Glass veranda emphasises the glazing — the glass roof and glass walls.
  • Aluminium veranda emphasises the frame material; in practice, most glass verandas are aluminium verandas.
  • Glass room and outdoor glass room are more general terms for the same kind of sheltered, glazed outdoor space.
  • Veranda with glass sides or enclosed veranda describe the sliding or fixed glass walls specifically.
  • Glass patio enclosure or garden veranda are simply other ways of describing where it sits and what it does.

In most cases, these terms point at the same idea: a glazed, sheltered outdoor room. The one distinction that genuinely matters isn’t in any of these names — it’s whether the structure is single-glazed and seasonal (a veranda) or insulated and year-round (a conservatory, orangery or glass box). Keep your eye on that, and the terminology stops being a maze.

07 / Guide

Why glass verandas are a smart addition for UK homes

The veranda is an old idea — traditionally a roofed, open-sided gallery offering shade and shelter. The modern glass veranda brings it up to date with slim aluminium and large panes of glass, turning a simple covered area into a bright, enclosable outdoor room.

In the UK especially, glass verandas have grown in popularity for good, practical reasons. Our weather is famously changeable, and a structure that lets you enjoy the garden whatever the sky is doing has obvious appeal. There’s also been a strong shift towards indoor-outdoor living — people want their homes to flow into their gardens. And as the cost and disruption of full extensions have risen, a glass veranda has become an attractive middle path: a way to add a genuinely useful, light-filled room without a major building project. It’s a seasonal outdoor living space rather than a heated, year-round extension — but for many homeowners, that is exactly what they’re looking for.

For many homeowners, the appeal comes down to value in the truest sense — more comfortable time enjoying the home and garden you already have, across far more of the year, for a more accessible outlay than an insulated extension.

08 / Guide

What you can use a glass veranda for

Because it’s flexible, a glass veranda gets used in lots of ways:

  • A relaxed garden lounge — comfortable seating under a glass roof, open or sheltered as the day dictates.
  • An outdoor dining room — a sheltered spot for lunches and evening meals, with lighting for after dark.
  • A morning coffee or reading room — a bright, calm corner that catches the light.
  • An entertaining space — somewhere to host with the garden as the backdrop, whatever the forecast.
  • A spa or hot-tub enclosure — shelter and a degree of privacy while keeping the open feel.
  • A freestanding garden retreat — a destination at the end of the garden.

The common thread is sheltered, comfortable time spent closer to the garden. To picture how it could work for your space, the All-Glass Room brochure is full of layouts and ideas.

Glass veranda used as a sheltered outdoor dining and garden room space
09 / Guide

Is a glass veranda right for the UK climate?

A glass veranda is genuinely well suited to extending the usable garden season in the UK. The glass roof gives full shelter from rain, and closing the sliding walls protects you from wind and showers, so you gain comfortable time outdoors across spring, summer and autumn — including plenty of days that would otherwise be too breezy or unsettled to sit out.

The honest caveat is winter. Because a glass veranda is single-glazed and not insulated, it won’t feel as warm as a heated indoor room in the coldest months. It will still keep the rain and wind off, and many people add portable or infrared heaters, blinds and soft furnishings to stretch comfortable use into cooler evenings. But it’s best understood as a three-season room that shelters you, rather than a heated space for everyday winter use. Keep that expectation in mind, and a glass veranda copes with the British climate very well.

10 / Guide

How much does a glass veranda cost — and do I need permission?

A glass veranda is a more accessible route to the glass look than a full insulated extension, though it’s a seasonal space, not a year-round one. The price depends on its size, enclosure, glazing, frame, and groundwork your patio needs, so it’s quoted individually. For broader context on glazed-structure pricing, the glass extensions price guide is a useful reference — and the quickest way to get an accurate figure for your home is to request a tailored quote.

On planning, many glass verandas fall within permitted development, but this isn’t guaranteed. It depends on your property’s size, height and position, and listed buildings, conservation areas and similar designations can change the rules. The government’s Planning Portal is the place to check, and Room Outside will help you understand the likely position for your property before you commit.

11 / Guide

Common mistakes when buying a glass veranda

A glass veranda is a long-term addition to your home, so it pays to choose well. These are the mistakes we see most often — and how to avoid them.

Choosing price over specification. The cheapest verandas are usually self-assembly kits with thinner materials and no installation. They can look similar in a photo, but the specification — the glass, the frame, the fixings, the finish — is what determines how the veranda performs and how long it lasts. Compare like for like, not just headline prices. The All-Glass Room specification is a useful benchmark for what a premium build includes.

Poor-quality roof glass. The roof works hardest of all. Look for reinforced laminated safety glass, which is designed to stay intact if damaged and gives the clearest, brightest result. Cheaper polycarbonate or thin glazing can discolour, mark and feel far less premium over time.

Overlooking drainage and guttering design. Rainwater has to go somewhere. A veranda with well-designed integral guttering and proper drainage will cope cleanly with British weather; a poorly designed one can drip, pool or overflow. It’s an easy detail to ignore at quote stage and an annoying one to live with afterwards.

Accepting bulky framing. The whole point of a glass veranda is light and an open view. Heavy, chunky frames block sightlines and make the space feel smaller and more dated. Slim, strong aluminium keeps the structure elegant and the garden in view — worth checking carefully when you compare options.

Assuming all verandas are suitable for year-round use. Perhaps the most common mistake. A single-glazed glass veranda is a seasonal, sheltered room — not an insulated, year-round space. If you genuinely need everyday winter warmth, you’ll be better served by an insulated conservatory, orangery or glass box extension. Match the product to how you’ll really use it, and you’ll be delighted with the result.

12 / Guide

Ready to plan your glass veranda?

If a glass veranda sounds like the space you’re after, the difference between a good result and a disappointing one comes down to design, specification and installation. A surveyed, professionally installed veranda — shaped around your home and garden, with quality glass and slim aluminium — looks better, lasts longer and is far more enjoyable to live with than a generic flat-pack kit.

Room Outside designs and installs each All-Glass Room around your space, backed by more than 50 years’ experience and Room Outside aftercare. Take the next step today:

The sooner you request your brochure or quote, the sooner you could be enjoying your garden for more of the year.

FAQ

What is a glass veranda in simple terms?

A roofed outdoor structure with a glass roof and usually sliding glass walls, creating a sheltered, light-filled room on your patio or in your garden for spring, summer and autumn use.

What is a glass veranda made of?

Typically a powder-coated aluminium frame, a reinforced laminated safety-glass roof, and single-glazed sliding glass wall panels, often with integrated lighting and integral guttering.

Is a glass veranda waterproof?

Yes. The glass roof gives full shelter from rain, and closing the sliding walls protects the space from wind and driving rain.

Is a glass veranda cheaper than an extension?

Usually yes, as it’s a lighter, single-glazed structure that involves less cost and disruption. However, it’s important to remember that it’s a seasonal outdoor space, not a year-round room — for everyday winter use, an insulated extension is usually the better choice.

What’s the difference between a veranda and a glass veranda?

A traditional veranda is essentially a roofed, often open-sided shelter. A glass veranda adds a glass roof and glass walls, creating a brighter, more enclosable outdoor room.

Is a glass veranda the same as an aluminium veranda?

Usually, yes — most glass verandas are built on an aluminium frame, so the terms often describe the same product, with "glass" highlighting the glazing and "aluminium" the frame.

What are the main types of glass veranda?

Open-sided (roof only), verandas with fixed glass sides, and fully enclosable verandas with sliding glass walls. Each can be wall-mounted to the house or freestanding in the garden.

Is a glass veranda the same as a conservatory?

No. A conservatory is a fully glazed, insulated, year-round room that forms part of the house. A glass veranda is single-glazed and designed for seasonal, sheltered outdoor living.

What should I avoid when buying a glass veranda?

Choosing on price alone, poor-quality roof glass, weak drainage and guttering, bulky framing, and assuming a single-glazed veranda will work as a year-round room. Compare specifications, not just prices.

How do I get a glass veranda for my home?

Explore the All-Glass Room product page, download the brochure to compare options, then request a tailored quote and our team will design one around your home.

Ready to plan your glass veranda?

01243 538999 | Surrey | West Sussex | East Sussex | Hampshire | Kent | Essex | London | Dorset | Berkshire
roomoutsideuk
01st June, 2026

Aluminium vs Timber vs uPVC: Choosing the Right Frame in 2026

Aluminium vs Timber vs uPVC: Choosing the Right Frame in 2026 | Room Outside
Conservatory frame guide

Aluminium vs Timber vs uPVC: Choosing the Right Frame in 2026

A practical East Sussex guide to frame materials, covering style, maintenance, coastal exposure, heritage settings and long-term performance.

Updated 1 June 2026 12 minute read East Sussex conservatories
The short answer

For most East Sussex conservatory projects in 2026, aluminium is the strongest all-round frame choice.

It gives you slimmer sightlines than typical uPVC, lower maintenance than timber and the structural strength needed for bright glazed rooms. Timber still wins in some heritage settings, and uPVC still has a place where budget is the main driver.

Design note: this page follows the Room Outside blog guide layout with scoped article styling, card sections, jump navigation and FAQ accordions.

Modern aluminium conservatory with slim dark frames and glazed roof attached to an East Sussex home
Aluminium frames suit bright, glazed conservatory designs where slim sightlines and long-term durability matter.

Every frame material can work. The real question is what your project values most: low maintenance, heritage character, lowest initial price or a clean modern finish with more glass and less frame.

Material Best for Main advantage Watch point 2026 verdict
Aluminium Premium modern conservatories, larger glazing and coastal homes Slim frames, strong structure and low maintenance Higher initial cost than basic uPVC Best all-round
Timber Period homes, listed buildings and conservation-sensitive projects Natural warmth and authentic traditional detailing Needs painting, staining and regular care Best heritage look
uPVC Budget-led conservatories and simple white-frame projects Lower upfront cost and easy daily maintenance Bulkier profiles and a less premium finish Best entry cost
02

Why aluminium leads in 2026

Slim sightlines, strong frames and a premium contemporary finish

Aluminium is ideal if you want a bright, open conservatory with more glass and less frame. Because aluminium is structurally strong, the profiles can be slimmer than many uPVC alternatives, helping maximise natural light and garden views.

Modern aluminium systems are thermally broken, so the inner and outer parts of the frame are separated to reduce heat transfer. That matters when the conservatory is being designed as a year-round living space rather than a fair-weather garden room.

1

Slimmer frame lines

Aluminium can carry larger glazed areas without the bulky profiles often associated with budget uPVC frames.

High visual impact
2

Low maintenance

Powder-coated aluminium needs routine cleaning, not repainting, sanding or staining.

Low upkeep
3

Coastal suitability

For East Sussex sea-air locations, ask for suitable coating, hardware and cleaning guidance.

Location dependent

Best fit

Aluminium suits modern conservatories, garden rooms, larger glazed openings, bifold-door designs and homes where the frame should feel crisp rather than chunky.

03

When timber still makes sense

Warmth, character and period authenticity

Timber remains a beautiful choice, especially for listed buildings, older cottages and homes in conservation areas. It has a natural warmth that aluminium and uPVC cannot fully replicate.

The trade-off is maintenance. Timber usually needs more regular care, including painting or staining, and it can cost more upfront. In some heritage settings, though, the character of the building matters as much as performance.

Use timber when appearance rules the brief

If the property is listed, visually sensitive or part of a conservation area, timber may be the most appropriate material. Check local planning guidance before settling on any replacement-style frame.

04

Where uPVC fits

A practical option when upfront cost is the main driver

uPVC is usually the most budget-friendly frame material. It is practical, widely available and easy to look after, which is why it remains common for straightforward conservatory projects.

The limitation is visual refinement. uPVC frames are generally bulkier than aluminium, which can reduce glass area and make the structure feel less elegant. It may also be less suitable for premium designs, larger openings or sensitive heritage locations.

1

Choose uPVC for simple budgets

It is strongest when the project is modest, white-framed and cost-led.

Budget-led
2

Avoid forcing it into premium designs

Large glazed walls, dark modern frames and architectural projects usually look sharper in aluminium.

Design-led
Room Outside design principle

A frame is only part of the comfort equation

The frame material matters, but so do the glass, roof specification, ventilation, orientation and whether the conservatory remains thermally separated from the main house. A well-specified aluminium frame can form the backbone of a room that feels light, calm and usable across the seasons.

05

East Sussex checks before you decide

Coast, conservation and year-round use all change the answer

Local context matters. Coastal exposure, conservation areas and the age of the property can all affect what frame material makes most sense.

Aluminium fits

Go with aluminium if…

You want slim sightlines and a premium modern look
Your design includes large panes, bifolds or strong garden views
You want low maintenance near coastal air
The conservatory should feel like a long-term home improvement
Check first

Consider another route if…

The property is listed or very conservation-sensitive
Budget only stretches to the lowest-cost frame option
You want a deliberately rustic or traditional painted-wood character
The existing house design strongly favours another material

Planning and building regulations note

In England, conservatories are often treated differently depending on whether they remain thermally separated from the main house. If the space is opened up to the home or connected to the main heating system, it may need to meet more demanding building regulation requirements.

The 2026 verdict

Choose aluminium if you want a conservatory that feels bright, modern, durable and easy to maintain. Choose timber where heritage character or planning sensitivity is the priority. Choose uPVC where budget is the main driver.

For most East Sussex homeowners looking for a long-lasting conservatory with slim frames and strong year-round performance, aluminium offers the best balance of style, strength and practicality.

The honest rule of thumb

If the room is meant to be a genuine everyday living space, invest in the frame and glazing specification. If the project is mainly a seasonal garden room, a simpler specification may be enough. A site visit normally settles the right route quickly.

Room Outside

Conservatory, Orangery and Glass Extension Specialists – Established 1973

Room Outside has designed and built orangeries, conservatories and glass extensions across East Sussex, West Sussex, Hampshire, Surrey, Kent, Essex, Greater London, Dorset and Berkshire for over 50 years. Call us anytime – David, our digital assistant, will take a few details so the right specialist can follow up personally. 01243 538999

Explore Room Outside guides

06

Cost, lifespan and maintenance in 2026

The best frame is the one that still makes sense ten years from now

Frame choice is often discussed as a simple price comparison, but the real cost of a conservatory is spread across the whole life of the room. The initial quote matters, but so do maintenance, thermal performance, finish durability, replacement cycles and whether the design still looks right as the house changes around it.

Aluminium normally sits above basic uPVC on initial cost, but it often earns its place on premium projects because it gives a sharper finish, stronger frames and lower long-term upkeep. Timber can be premium too, especially when made well, but it asks more from the homeowner over time. uPVC is the sensible budget route when the brief is simple and the design does not need very slim profiles.

Material Initial cost Maintenance level Typical lifespan position Best value when
Aluminium Mid to high Low: clean frames and inspect drainage, seals and hardware Strong long-term option when specified correctly You want a premium, durable, low-maintenance conservatory
Timber Mid to high Medium to high: repainting or staining will be needed Long-lasting if cared for well Heritage character is more important than low upkeep
uPVC Low to mid Low day-to-day, but finish and profile style may date sooner Good for straightforward projects, weaker for premium builds Budget is fixed and the design is simple

Do not judge by frame price alone

A cheaper frame can become poor value if it limits glazing size, looks bulky, needs replacing sooner or makes the finished room feel less connected to the garden. A better frame specification is often easier to justify when the conservatory is intended as an everyday living space.

A conservatory should not feel like an afterthought. The frame material, colour and profile need to sit comfortably with the existing house, the garden and the level of finish you want inside the new space.

1

Modern coastal homes

Aluminium is usually the cleanest fit. Dark grey, black, bronze or soft neutral powder-coated frames can give a crisp architectural look without making the conservatory feel heavy.

Aluminium usually wins
2

Period and heritage properties

Timber may be the natural choice when the building has original painted joinery, traditional proportions or planning sensitivity. Aluminium can still work, but the colour, sightlines and detailing need careful handling.

Timber often fits best
3

Simple family homes

uPVC can be completely sensible on modest homes where the conservatory is compact, practical and budget-led. Aluminium is worth considering if the design includes larger doors, a premium finish or more glass.

Brief dependent

Colour is just as important as material. White uPVC can look familiar and clean, but it may also emphasise bulk. Dark aluminium can make the frame recede, which is useful when the main goal is garden view. Timber gives warmth, but painted finishes need ongoing care if they are exposed to sun, rain and coastal air.

08

Specification details to confirm before you commit

Small technical decisions make a big difference to comfort

Two aluminium conservatories can perform very differently depending on the system, glass, roof, ventilation and installation. The same is true for timber and uPVC. Before choosing a frame material, make sure the full specification has been discussed clearly.

1

Ask about thermal breaks and glazing

For aluminium, the thermal break helps reduce heat transfer through the frame. The glass specification then does much of the heavy lifting for comfort, glare control and year-round usability.

Comfort check
2

Confirm coating and hardware for coastal exposure

East Sussex homes near the coast should discuss powder coating, fixings, handles, hinges and cleaning guidance. Salt air is not a reason to avoid aluminium, but it is a reason to specify it properly.

Coastal check
3

Check ventilation and solar control

A bright glazed room needs a plan for summer heat, winter comfort and everyday ventilation. Roof vents, opening windows, door configuration and glass choice should all be part of the same conversation.

Usability check
4

Clarify planning and building regulation assumptions

Do not assume every conservatory is treated the same. Whether the room is thermally separated, how it connects to the main house and whether the property is in a sensitive area can all affect the route.

Compliance check

How to choose the right frame

If you are still split between aluminium, timber and uPVC, start with the role the conservatory needs to play. A room that will be used every day deserves a different level of specification from a simple seasonal space. A property with heritage character needs a different design conversation from a modern coastal home.

For a premium East Sussex conservatory, aluminium is normally the strongest starting point. It gives a contemporary finish, handles larger glazed areas well and keeps maintenance manageable. Timber should stay on the table when the house has traditional detailing or planning sensitivity. uPVC remains useful when the project is straightforward and cost control matters most.

The practical decision route

Choose aluminium for slim frames, modern design, larger glass and low maintenance. Choose timber for heritage authenticity and natural character. Choose uPVC for a simpler, lower-cost conservatory where premium sightlines are less important.

Questions to ask before approving your frame choice

Design questions

Check the look and layout

Will the frame colour suit the existing windows, doors and roofline?
Are the sightlines slim enough for the garden view you want?
Does the material match the age and character of the property?
Performance questions

Check comfort and upkeep

What cleaning or repainting will the frame need over time?
What glass, roof and ventilation specification is included?
Is the frame system suitable for your location and exposure?

Sources and further reading

Based on UK Building Regulations Part L, permitted development guidance via the Planning Portal, FENSA conservatory advice, QUALICOAT seaside guidance and local conservation window guidance. For independent guidance, see the Planning Portal conservatory guide, GOV.UK Approved Document L, FENSA and QUALICOAT Seaside. Planning rules are applied locally and change over time, so always confirm with your local authority. Last updated June 2026.

Frequently Asked Questions

The conservatory frame questions East Sussex homeowners ask most often.

Is aluminium better than uPVC for a conservatory?

Aluminium is usually better for a premium finish, slimmer frames, larger glass areas and long-term durability. uPVC remains useful for simpler projects where upfront cost is the main priority.

Is timber worth the extra maintenance?

It can be, especially for period homes, listed properties and conservation areas. For most modern homes, aluminium gives a cleaner balance of appearance, performance and upkeep.

Can aluminium suit a traditional East Sussex home?

Yes, particularly when the frame colour and profile are chosen carefully. For highly sensitive buildings, it is worth checking local planning guidance before deciding.

What should coastal homeowners ask for?

Ask about powder coating, coastal exposure guidance, cleaning intervals and hardware specification. The right finish and maintenance routine can make a noticeable difference near sea air.

Call us anytime – David, our digital assistant, will take a few details so the right specialist can follow up personally. 01243 538999

Design a Conservatory Frame That Suits Your Home

Frame material affects light, comfort, upkeep and the look of the finished room. We can help you choose the right specification for your East Sussex home before you commit.

Call us anytime – David, our digital assistant, will take a few details.
01243 538999  |  Room Outside, conservatory and glass extension specialists since 1973
East Sussex | West Sussex | Hampshire | Surrey | Kent | Essex | London | Dorset | Berkshire

roomoutsideuk
09th March, 2026

How to Choose the Right Company for Your Glass Extension: A Discerning Buyer’s Framework | Room Outside

How to Choose the Right Company for Your Glass Extension: A Discerning Buyer’s Framework

How to Choose the Right Company for Your Glass Extension

A Discerning Buyer’s Framework: 25 questions to ask, red flags to avoid, and how to identify a company worthy of your trust and investment.

Quick Answer

Choose a company with: 10+ years trading history, verifiable completed projects, detailed written quotes, insurance-backed guarantees, proper accreditations (FENSA, GGF), and no high-pressure sales tactics. Get 3-4 quotes but don’t choose on price alone—compare specifications and evaluate the companies themselves.

Avoid companies that: pressure you to sign today, demand large deposits upfront (over 15%), won’t provide references, give vague verbal quotes, don’t discuss Building Regulations, or have no traceable business history. Trust your instincts—if something feels wrong, walk away.

The Discerning Buyer’s Checklist

  • Trading history: Look for 10+ years in business with traceable records
  • Fixed address: Established premises or showroom you can visit
  • Portfolio: Real completed projects you can see (not just stock photos)
  • References: Recent customers willing to speak with you
  • Detailed quotes: Written, itemised, with clear specifications
  • Insurance-backed guarantees: Protection if the company ceases trading
  • Accreditations: FENSA, GGF, TrustMark, or equivalent
  • Deposit: Maximum 10-15%, staged payments thereafter
  • No pressure: Time to consider without “today only” discounts
  • Building Regs: Clear explanation of compliance responsibilities
10+
Years trading minimum
3-4
Quotes to compare
15%
Max deposit
0
High-pressure tactics

Why Choosing the Right Company Matters

A glass extension is a significant investment—typically £30,000 to £150,000+ depending on specification. You’re entrusting a company with your home, your money, and months of your life during the project. The difference between a good company and a poor one isn’t just the finished result; it’s the entire experience from first enquiry to final handover and beyond.

The conservatory and glass extension industry, like all home improvement sectors, has its share of excellent companies, mediocre operators, and outright rogues. The excellent companies deliver projects that exceed expectations, handle problems professionally, and leave customers genuinely delighted. The poor ones create stress, disappointment, and sometimes financial loss.

This guide will help you identify which is which before you commit.

A Note on Transparency

We’re Room Outside—a conservatory and glass extension company since 1973. Yes, we’d like you to consider us for your project. But more importantly, we want you to make a good decision, whoever you choose. A well-informed buyer asks better questions, recognises quality, and ultimately gets a better result. If we’re the right fit, that process will reveal it. If another company is better for your specific needs, you’ll discover that too.

Red Flags vs Green Flags

Some warning signs should end a conversation immediately. Others are positive indicators that suggest a company operates professionally. Here’s what to watch for:

Red Flags

Walk Away If You See These

  • “Sign today” pressure: Discounts that expire when the salesperson leaves
  • Large deposits: Requests for 30%+ upfront or full payment before completion
  • No fixed address: PO Box only, no premises you can visit
  • Cash discounts: Suggests tax avoidance and reduces your protection
  • Won’t provide references: Reluctance to connect you with past customers
  • Vague quotes: “About £X” without written specification
  • No Building Regs discussion: Ignoring compliance responsibilities
  • Pushy behaviour: Won’t leave until you sign, returns repeatedly
  • Stock photos only: No real portfolio of their own work
  • Recently formed company: Trading only 1-2 years (phoenix company risk)
Green Flags

Positive Indicators of Quality

  • Established history: 10+ years trading under the same name
  • Showroom: Physical premises you can visit and see products
  • Genuine portfolio: Real projects with locations you could verify
  • Happy to provide references: Confident in customer satisfaction
  • Detailed written quotes: Itemised, with clear specifications
  • No pressure: Encourages you to take time and compare
  • Clear on Building Regs: Explains compliance and handles it for you
  • Insurance-backed guarantees: Protection beyond the company itself
  • Professional accreditations: FENSA, GGF, TrustMark, etc.
  • Own installation teams: Employees, not rotating subcontractors

25 Questions to Ask Every Company

These questions reveal a company’s professionalism, capability, and trustworthiness. The answers—and how they’re delivered—tell you a great deal.

About the Company

1

How long have you been trading under this name?

Look for 10+ years. Shorter histories may indicate a “phoenix” company—reformed after previous failure.

2

What’s your registered business address?

Should be traceable premises, not just a PO Box. Can you visit?

3

Can I see your portfolio of completed projects?

Real projects with locations—not just stock images or renders.

4

Can I speak with recent customers or visit a completed project?

Confident companies welcome this. Reluctance is a red flag.

5

What accreditations and memberships do you hold?

FENSA, GGF, TrustMark, Which? Trusted Trader, ISO certifications.

About the Project

6

Who will design my project?

In-house designers vs. salesperson with a catalogue? Design expertise matters.

7

What materials do you use for frames?

Specific systems and manufacturers—not generic “aluminium” or “uPVC.”

8

What glazing specification do you use?

Glass type, U-values, solar control, manufacturer. Specifics indicate expertise.

9

Who handles Building Regulations and planning?

Should be clear on responsibilities and ideally handle this for you.

10

Do you use your own installation teams or subcontractors?

Own teams typically mean better quality control and accountability.

11

Who will be my point of contact throughout the project?

A dedicated project manager vs. “call the office” is preferable.

12

What’s included in the price?

Foundations? Electrics? Flooring? Decoration? Get clarity on inclusions.

13

What’s NOT included?

Exclusions are just as important. Hidden extras destroy budgets.

About Money and Protection

14

What deposit do you require?

10-15% is reasonable. Over 25-30% is a warning sign.

15

What’s the payment schedule?

Should be staged against milestones, not front-loaded.

16

When is the final payment due?

Should be on satisfactory completion—not before you’re happy.

17

What warranties do you offer?

Frame guarantee, glass unit guarantee, workmanship warranty—get specifics.

18

Are your guarantees insurance-backed?

Critical. Without this, a 25-year warranty is worthless if they close in year 3.

19

Who provides the insurance backing?

Should be a recognisable insurer you can verify.

About Problems and After-Care

20

What happens if something goes wrong during the build?

How do they handle problems? Clear process vs. vague assurances.

21

What’s your process for snagging and final inspection?

Formal sign-off process ensures issues are resolved before final payment.

22

How do I report problems after completion?

Clear after-care contact, not “call the mobile of whoever installed it.”

23

What’s your typical response time for warranty issues?

Specific commitment vs. “we’ll get to it when we can.”

24

What documents will I receive at completion?

Building Regs certificate, electrical certificate, warranties, manuals.

25

Can I see your standard contract?

Review before committing. Clear, fair terms indicate professionalism.

Understanding Quotes: Price vs Value

Getting multiple quotes is sensible—but comparing them requires care. The cheapest quote is rarely the best value, and sometimes the most expensive isn’t either.

What a Good Quote Should Include

Quote Checklist:

Detailed specification: Frame system, colour, glazing spec, roof type, hardware
Clear dimensions: Size, layout, and configuration confirmed
Inclusions list: Everything covered by the price—foundations, electrics, etc.
Exclusions list: What’s NOT included—equally important
Payment terms: Deposit amount, stage payments, final payment timing
Timeline: Estimated start date and completion
Warranty details: What’s covered, for how long, insurance backing
Quote validity: How long the price is valid (typically 30-90 days)

Why the Cheapest Quote Often Isn’t Cheapest

A significantly lower quote usually means one of these:

  • Inferior materials: Cheaper frames, basic glazing, lower-spec hardware
  • Missing items: Foundations, electrics, finishing work not included
  • Less experienced installers: Cheaper labour, potentially lower quality
  • No insurance backing: Warranty worthless if they go bust
  • Extras added later: Low quote to win the job, then variations increase cost

The “Like-for-Like” Test

Before concluding one quote is better value, check they’re quoting the same thing. Compare:

  • Frame system and manufacturer (not just “aluminium”)
  • Glass specification and U-values
  • Foundation type and depth
  • Electrical scope (how many sockets, what lighting)
  • Flooring inclusion or exclusion
  • Internal finishes (plastering, decoration)
  • Warranty length and insurance backing

A quote £15,000 lower that excludes foundations, electrics, and flooring isn’t actually cheaper.

Accreditations Worth Looking For

Trade accreditations indicate a company meets certain professional standards. Not all accreditations are equal—some are rigorous, others less so. Here are the meaningful ones:

FENSA

Government-authorised scheme for self-certifying window/door installations meet Building Regulations.

GGF

Glass and Glazing Federation—industry body with codes of practice and consumer protection.

TrustMark

Government-endorsed quality scheme. Requires financial checks and customer protection.

Which? Trusted Trader

Vetted by Which? with ongoing customer feedback monitoring.

Checkatrade

Verified reviews and basic vetting. Useful but less rigorous than TrustMark.

Manufacturer Approved

Authorised installer for specific systems (e.g., Schüco, Origin). Indicates training and support.

No accreditation guarantees perfection, but membership indicates a company is willing to meet external standards and be held accountable. Complete absence of any accreditations is concerning.

Warranties and Guarantees: What Really Protects You

Warranty claims are meaningless if the company has ceased trading—which is why insurance-backed guarantees (IBGs) are essential.

Warranty Type What It Covers Typical Duration
Frame guarantee Structural integrity, finish, hardware 10-25 years
Sealed unit guarantee Misting, failed seals in double/triple glazing 5-10 years
Workmanship warranty Installation defects, water ingress, settling 2-10 years
Insurance-backed guarantee Protection if installer ceases trading 10-25 years

The Insurance-Backed Guarantee Test

When a company offers an insurance-backed guarantee, verify:

  • Who underwrites it? Should be a recognisable insurance company
  • Can you get documentation? Certificate issued directly to you
  • What’s actually covered? Read the terms, not just the headline
  • Is the insurer legitimate? Check FCA register if unsure

A “25-year guarantee” from a company that might not exist in 5 years—without insurance backing—is worthless paper.

The Consultation: What to Observe

The initial consultation reveals much about how a company operates. Pay attention to:

Positive Signs

  • Listening first: They ask about your needs before launching into a pitch
  • Technical knowledge: Can answer questions about materials, Building Regs, thermal performance
  • Honest about limitations: Will say “that won’t work” rather than promising everything
  • No pressure: Comfortable with you getting other quotes and taking time
  • Clear on process: Explains how the project would work from start to finish
  • Brings samples: Shows actual materials, not just brochures
  • Provides written quote: Detailed, to follow up after the visit

Warning Signs

  • All talk, no listen: Pushes their agenda without understanding yours
  • Vague on details: Can’t explain materials or specifications clearly
  • Promises everything: No project constraints, no complications—suspicious
  • Pressure tactics: “This price is only valid today,” “I need to call my manager”
  • Won’t leave: Sits for hours, returns repeatedly, creates obligation
  • Verbal quote only: Reluctant to put it in writing
  • Disparages competitors: Professional companies focus on their own merits

Final Checklist: Before You Sign

Complete This Before Committing:

Verified trading history — Companies House check, 10+ years trading
Spoken to references — Contacted recent customers directly
Seen completed work — Visited a project or viewed genuine portfolio
Compared 3-4 quotes — Like-for-like specification comparison
Understood inclusions/exclusions — Know exactly what’s in the price
Confirmed insurance-backed guarantee — Verified the underwriter
Read the contract — Full terms, not just headline promises
Comfortable with the company — Trust your instincts about the relationship

Room Outside

Glass Extension Specialists | Established 1973 | 50+ Years Experience

Room Outside has been designing and building conservatories, orangeries, and glass extensions since 1973. We welcome the questions in this guide—because we know our answers stand up to scrutiny. Call 01243 538999 to start a conversation.

About This Guide

This buyer’s guide draws on 50+ years of Room Outside’s experience in the conservatory and glass extension industry. The advice reflects our observations of what distinguishes reputable companies from problematic operators.

Last updated: March 2026 | Author: Room Outside

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I choose a good conservatory company?

Look for 10+ years trading history, verifiable portfolio, detailed written quotes, insurance-backed guarantees, trade accreditations (FENSA, GGF), and no high-pressure sales. Get 3-4 quotes and compare specifications, not just prices.

What questions should I ask a conservatory company?

Key questions: How long have you traded? Can I visit completed work? Who manages my project? What’s included/excluded? Who handles Building Regs? What warranties do you offer? Are guarantees insurance-backed? What’s the payment schedule?

What are the red flags when choosing a conservatory installer?

Warning signs: “Sign today” pressure, large deposits (over 15%), no fixed address, cash discounts, won’t provide references, vague quotes, no Building Regs discussion, pushy salespeople, stock photos only, recently formed company.

Should I get multiple quotes for a conservatory?

Yes, 3-4 quotes is advisable. But compare like-for-like specifications, check inclusions/exclusions, and evaluate the companies themselves. The cheapest quote often excludes items or uses inferior materials—rarely the best value.

What warranties should a conservatory company offer?

Look for: 10-year frame guarantee, 5-10 year sealed unit guarantee, workmanship warranty, and critically—insurance-backed guarantee protecting you if the company ceases trading. Verify the insurer is legitimate.

How much deposit should I pay for a conservatory?

10-15% deposit is reasonable, with staged payments at milestones (materials delivery, frame installation, completion). Be wary of 30%+ upfront or full payment before completion. Final balance should be on satisfactory completion only.

What accreditations should a conservatory company have?

Useful accreditations: FENSA (self-certifying installations), GGF membership, TrustMark (government-endorsed), Which? Trusted Trader, manufacturer approvals. These indicate professional standards and accountability.

Should I visit a conservatory showroom?

If possible, yes. Showrooms let you see build quality, glazing, and finishes firsthand. Companies with showrooms have invested in their business—a positive indicator. But excellent companies can operate without showrooms too.

Call us anytime – David, our digital assistant, will take a few details so the right specialist can follow up personally. 01243 538999 or request a consultation online

Ready to Find the Right Company?

We’ve been building glass extensions since 1973. We welcome your questions, encourage you to compare us with others, and are confident our answers—and our work—will speak for themselves.

Book Free Consultation

Call us anytime on 01243 538999 – David, our digital assistant, will take a few details so the right specialist can follow up personally.

Room Outside: Glass extension specialists since 1973.
Serving Kent, Surrey, Sussex, Hampshire, London & surrounding areas.

roomoutsideuk
05th January, 2026

Permitted Development for Glass Extensions

Permitted development rights exist to let homeowners improve their properties without bureaucratic delays
Permitted Development for Glass Extensions 2026 | Updated Rules & Regulations | Room Outside
🎉 2026 UPDATE • New fee changes • Updated regulations • Latest guidance

Permitted Development for Glass Extensions

2026 Updated Guide: What you can build without planning permission—and when you need to apply.

The Quick Answer (2026)

Most conservatories and glass extensions don’t need planning permission if they meet 2026 permitted development limits.

Detached houses: Up to 4m rear projection (8m with prior approval)
Semi-detached/Terraced: Up to 3m rear projection (6m with prior approval)
Maximum height: 4 metres overall
Maximum coverage: 50% of curtilage (including all extensions)

2026 Key changes: Planning application fee £572, Prior approval fee £260, LDC fee £290. Materials matching requirement relaxed for glass extensions.

Key exceptions: Listed buildings, conservation areas, flats, and properties with Article 4 directions may have restricted or removed rights.

4m
Max projection for detached houses
3m
Max projection for attached houses
£572
2026 Planning application fee
£290
2026 LDC application fee
“Do I need planning permission for my conservatory in 2026?” The answer is “it depends”—but it doesn’t have to be frustrating. The 2026 rules governing what you can build without planning permission are specific, logical, and once you understand them, remarkably straightforward to apply. This updated guide incorporates all regulatory changes effective from April 2026.

Permitted Development Limits at a Glance (2026)

This comprehensive comparison table shows the 2026 permitted development limits for different property types. Use this as your quick reference guide when planning your glass extension.

Requirement Detached House Semi/Terraced
Max rear projection (standard) 4 metres 3 metres
Max rear projection (prior approval) 8 metres 6 metres
Maximum overall height 4 metres 4 metres
Max eaves (within 2m of boundary) 3 metres 3 metres
Maximum curtilage coverage 50% 50%
Side extension width limit 50% of original width 50% of original width
Planning fee (2026) £572 £572
Prior approval fee (2026) £260 £260
2026 Permitted Development Limits
Max rear projection (standard)
Detached 4 metres
Semi/Terr 3 metres
Max rear projection (prior approval)
Detached 8 metres
Semi/Terr 6 metres
Maximum overall height
4 metres
Max eaves (within 2m of boundary)
3 metres
Maximum curtilage coverage
50%
Side extension width limit
50% of original
Planning fee (2026)
£572
Prior approval fee (2026)
£260
Standard PD 2026

Detached Houses

4m
maximum projection
Up to 8m with prior approval (£260 fee)
Standard PD 2026

Semi/Terraced Houses

3m
maximum projection
Up to 6m with prior approval (£260 fee)

2026 Key Regulatory Updates

Materials Matching Requirement Relaxed: The 2026 technical guidance specifically states that “the requirement for similar visual appearance does not apply to predominantly glazed structures.” This means your glass extension can use aluminium frames, uPVC, or timber without matching the brick or render of your house.

Fee Increases (Effective April 2026): Householder planning application: £572 (up from £528), Prior approval: £260 (up from £240), LDC: £290 (up from £264). These represent an average 8.3% increase to reflect inflation and administration costs.

Energy Efficiency Standards: Building Regulations Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power) has been updated. While conservatories remain exempt if thermally separated, orangeries and open-plan glass extensions must meet enhanced U-values for glazing and insulation.

Frequently Asked Questions (2026)

Do I need planning permission for a conservatory in 2026?

Usually not, if your conservatory meets 2026 permitted development limits: maximum 4 metres projection for detached houses (3 metres for attached), maximum 4 metres height, positioned at the rear, and covering no more than 50% of the curtilage.

What is the maximum size conservatory without planning permission in 2026?

There is no absolute size limit in 2026. The limits are on projection (4 metres for detached, 3 metres for attached houses under standard PD), height (4 metres maximum), and curtilage coverage (50% maximum).

Do orangeries need planning permission in 2026?

Orangeries follow the same permitted development rules as conservatories in 2026. If they meet the size, height, and position limits, planning permission is not required.

Can I build a conservatory in a conservation area in 2026?

Yes, but with restrictions. Rear extensions not visible from a highway may still qualify under permitted development, though limits may be reduced.

What happens if I build without planning permission in 2026?

If your extension exceeds permitted development limits and you didn’t obtain planning permission, the council can take enforcement action.

How much does a Lawful Development Certificate cost in 2026?

An LDC for a proposed householder development costs £290 in England (from April 2026). This is half the cost of a full planning application (£572).

Ready to Discuss Your 2026 Extension Project?

Our 2026 planning specialists navigate permitted development rules every day. We work across London, Surrey, Sussex, Hampshire and the South East.

roomoutsideuk
18th December, 2025

Factory-Built Extensions Are the Future | Room Outside

Why Factory-Built Extensions Are the Future | Room Outside

Why Factory-Built Extensions Are the Future of Home Improvement

Discover why precision-engineered, factory-built extensions deliver superior quality, faster installation, and less disruption than traditional construction methods.

What Is a Factory-Built Extension?

A factory-built extension is a precision-engineered home addition manufactured in a climate-controlled factory environment rather than constructed entirely on site. Components are built to millimetre tolerances in temperature and humidity-controlled conditions, then delivered substantially complete for rapid installation. This method achieves up to 67% less energy use during construction, 90% less waste, and 50% faster installation compared to traditional building methods.

The Numbers That Changed My Mind About Construction

I spent fifteen years in the home improvement industry believing that on-site construction was simply how things got done. Then I saw the data.

According to a 2025 industry report, 95% of UK construction projects are now experiencing delays, with the median delay stretching beyond 200 days. That is not a typo. Two hundred days late, on average.

200+
Days: The median delay on UK construction projects in 2025
Source: 2025 UK Construction Industry Report

A Cornerstone Projects survey found that 91% of construction professionals have been involved in delayed projects in recent years, up from 85% in 2016. Even more troubling, the most common delay has shifted from “less than 10%” of the original timeline in 2016 to “21-30%” today. Projects that should take eight weeks are routinely taking twelve. Those promised for Christmas are finishing in March.

If you have lived through a traditional building project, none of this will surprise you. The scaffolding that outstays its welcome. The skip that becomes a permanent fixture in your drive. The builder who promises “another two weeks” for the fifth time running.

But here is what did surprise me: it does not have to be this way.

The factory-built extension, once dismissed as the poor relation of “proper” construction, has quietly evolved into something quite different. The UK prefabricated construction market is projected to reach £20.78 billion by 2028, growing at 5.2% annually. Major housebuilders are investing millions. The NHS has expanded its modular buildings framework to £3.6 billion over four years. Something has shifted.

At Room Outside, we have been part of this shift. Our modular construction process is not a compromise or a shortcut. It is, genuinely, a better way to build. Let me explain why.

The Construction Industry’s Uncomfortable Truth

The UK construction sector has a productivity problem that nobody wants to talk about honestly.

Research from Smart Infrastructure Magazine found that up to 30% of all work on typical UK construction projects involves rework. That means nearly a third of what gets built has to be fixed, adjusted, or redone entirely.

30%
Of work requires rework on typical UK projects
65
Months: UK pre-construction phase (vs 50 average)
98%
Of megaprojects experience cost overruns
80%
Average cost increase above original estimate

Think about that for a moment. If you hired a chef who had to remake 30% of the dishes they served, you would find a different restaurant. If your mechanic had to redo 30% of their repairs, you would find a different garage. Yet in construction, we have somehow accepted this as normal.

BCG’s Centre for Growth found that the UK’s pre-construction phase is the slowest across comparable developed nations: 65 months compared to an average of 50. For rail projects, we are 50% slower than average. For roads and social infrastructure, 25% slower. This is not about British workers being less capable. It is about systems and methods that have not kept pace with what is now possible.

According to McKinsey, 98% of megaprojects experience cost overruns or delays. The average cost increase is 80% above the original estimate. Now, your orangery or garden room is not a megaproject. But the same fundamental issues—weather delays, coordination problems, quality inconsistencies—affect projects at every scale.

Why Traditional Building Methods Persist

The honest answer is inertia. Traditional building developed when on-site construction was genuinely the only option. Craftsmen worked with locally available materials, adapting their techniques to weather and circumstances. There was skill and artistry in this approach, and I do not want to diminish that.

But modern manufacturing has moved on. When Rolls-Royce builds an engine, they do not assemble it in a field, hoping it does not rain. When pharmaceutical companies produce medicines, they do not mix compounds in a garden shed. Precision work demands controlled environments.

The construction industry, particularly for residential work, has been slow to absorb this lesson. But that is changing. Modern Methods of Construction are now expanding at a 10.0% CAGR in the UK, compared to traditional methods which still hold 91.2% market share but are losing ground. The Ministry of Housing, Communities & Local Government reports that volumetric modular projects can cut programme durations by 20% while reducing waste by 45%.

What Factory Construction Actually Looks Like (It Is Not What You Think)

When most people hear “factory-built,” they picture cheap prefab housing from the 1960s. Flimsy panels, dodgy insulation, buildings that looked temporary even when they were meant to be permanent. That association is understandable, but it is thirty years out of date.

A modern factory-built extension is precision-engineered in conditions that would be impossible to replicate on site. Temperature controlled. Humidity managed. Skilled craftspeople working with tools and jigs that allow tolerances measured in millimetres rather than centimetres.

The Quality Advantage Is Measurable

This is not marketing spin. The differences show up in hard data.

Research published in the Journal of Building Engineering found that modular construction uses up to 67% less energy during the building phase compared to traditional methods. Factory-built structures can also be up to 15% more energy-efficient in operation, thanks to superior insulation and airtightness.

67%
Less energy used during factory construction vs traditional methods
Source: Journal of Building Engineering

Why? Because when you assemble a structure in a climate-controlled factory, materials behave predictably. Timber does not absorb excess moisture and then shrink as it dries. Adhesives cure at optimal temperatures. Seals form properly. Insulation goes in exactly as specified, without gaps or compression.

The Construction Industry Training Board reports that modular projects achieve an 80% reduction in on-site labour. That is not because corners are being cut. It is because the work has already been done, properly, in conditions where quality control is actually possible.

Quality Control That Actually Works

Here is a practical example. On a traditional building site, a quality inspection happens at the end. Once the extension is complete, someone checks whether it meets standards. By that point, problems are expensive and disruptive to fix. Walls need to be opened up. Work needs to be redone.

In factory production, inspection happens at every stage. Materials are checked on arrival. Components are tested after cutting. Assemblies are verified before final integration. A deviation from specification gets caught and corrected before it becomes embedded in the structure.

My suggestion: When comparing quotes for an extension, ask about the quality control process. A company using factory methods should be able to describe multiple inspection stages. A company relying entirely on site construction will probably mention a final inspection and not much else.

The Environmental Case (With Actual Numbers)

If you care about environmental impact, and many of the homeowners we work with do, the data here is striking.

According to the Waste & Resources Action Programme (WRAP), modular construction can reduce waste materials by up to 90% compared to traditional construction. A University of New South Wales study found waste reductions of 81-83% by weight.

90%
Reduction in waste materials with factory-built construction
Source: WRAP (Waste & Resources Action Programme)

To put this in context, the average new-build project produces approximately 3.9 pounds of waste per square foot. A 50,000 square foot building generates around 100 tonnes of waste, only about 20% of which gets recycled. Most ends up in landfill.

Factory construction changes this equation dramatically. Materials can be ordered precisely because cutting is computer-controlled. Off-cuts from one project become components for the next. Recycling infrastructure is built into the facility rather than improvised on site.

Transport and Carbon Footprint

Traditional construction involves dozens of deliveries: materials arriving incrementally, waste being removed in batches, tradespeople driving back and forth. Each journey adds to traffic and emissions.

A factory-built extension arrives substantially complete in a single delivery, with minimal follow-up visits for final connections. One study estimated a 30% reduction in total greenhouse gas emissions from modular construction compared to traditional methods. The reduction in vehicle movements also benefits your neighbours, which matters if you value good relationships with the people living next door.

Long-Term Performance

The environmental case extends beyond construction. A precision-built structure performs better thermally over its lifetime, reducing ongoing energy consumption. Make UK Modular reports that their members’ products operate at 55% lower heating costs compared to equivalent traditional builds. Over twenty or thirty years of ownership, that represents significant carbon savings as well as lower bills.

My suggestion: If sustainability matters to you, ask any builder you are considering what their waste figures look like. Factory-built specialists should be able to give you specific numbers. Traditional builders often cannot because they have not measured it.

What This Actually Means If You Are Extending Your Home

Statistics are useful, but what matters is your experience. Here is what changes when you choose factory-built construction.

Timeline: Days Rather Than Months

Traditional conservatory or orangery construction typically takes 12 to 16 weeks on site. That is three to four months of your garden being inaccessible, your home covered in dust, builders arriving early and leaving late.

Factory-built extensions can be installed 50% faster than traditional builds, with on-site time often reduced to days rather than weeks. The CITB reports an 80% reduction in on-site labour for modular projects.

Traditional Construction

  • 12-16 weeks on site
  • Garden inaccessible for months
  • Dust infiltrates every room
  • Constant noise disruption
  • Strangers in your home daily
  • Weather delays common

Factory-Built Construction

  • 50% faster installation
  • On-site time: days not weeks
  • 80% reduction in site labour
  • Minimal home disruption
  • Life continues normally during manufacture
  • Weather-independent production

The majority of construction happens elsewhere, while your life continues normally. Foundations are prepared (this still requires on-site work, typically a week or two). Then your extension arrives, substantially complete, and is installed rapidly. The transformation from building site to finished space happens with remarkable speed.

Cost Certainty (Or Lack Of It)

The 2022 Cornerstone Projects survey found that 47.56% of respondents estimated their delayed projects had cost overruns of more than 20%, up from 27.7% in 2016. Nearly half of projects are now running significantly over budget.

Factory construction reduces this uncertainty. When work happens in controlled conditions according to established processes, variables shrink. There are fewer weather delays, fewer unexpected complications, fewer moments when a builder sucks air through his teeth and mentions additional costs.

This matters especially for premium projects. If you are investing £30,000 to £100,000+ in an orangery or high-specification glass extension, you want confidence that the quoted price will be the actual price. Factory methods make that confidence realistic rather than hopeful.

Living Through The Build

Anyone who has lived through traditional construction knows what disruption actually means. The constant noise. Dust that infiltrates every room despite plastic sheeting. Strangers wandering through your home for months on end. The psychological weight of living in a building site.

Factory-built construction compresses this disruption dramatically. The on-site phase is brief enough that you can plan around it. Perhaps you take a short break while installation happens. Perhaps you simply tolerate a few days of activity knowing it will end soon. Either way, the experience is fundamentally different from enduring months of construction chaos.

For families with young children, those working from home, or anyone who values their domestic peace, this difference alone can justify the choice.

The Questions People Actually Ask

Having discussed factory-built extensions with hundreds of homeowners, I know which concerns come up repeatedly. Let me address them directly.

Common Questions About Factory-Built Extensions

“Is this just cheap prefab with better marketing?”

No, and the distinction matters. Budget prefab housing from the mid-twentieth century was designed primarily for speed and economy, using basic materials and minimal specification. It earned its poor reputation. Modern factory-built extensions use premium materials: engineered timber, architectural glass, high-specification fittings. They are designed individually for each property. The factory environment allows for precision that site-based construction cannot match, not lower standards. The UK modular construction market is now valued at £1.26 billion for panelised systems alone, with timber frame accounting for 70% of that market. This is mainstream construction, not a budget alternative.

“Can it be customised to my property?”

Absolutely. Factory production does not mean standardisation. Each extension is designed specifically for its site, considering the architecture of your existing property, orientation, aspect, and your requirements. The design process works the same as traditional construction: consultation, architectural drawings, material selection, refinement. The difference is in how that design gets built, not whether it is bespoke.

“What about planning permission?”

Planning regulations apply identically regardless of construction method. Permitted development rights work the same way. Full planning applications follow the same process. Building regulations approval is obtained normally. The Planning Portal provides guidance on requirements—they care about design, scale, and impact. They are not concerned with whether your extension was assembled on site or in a factory.

“Does it cost more?”

The initial quote for a high-quality factory-built extension is typically comparable to equivalent traditional construction. For reference, the average orangery in the UK costs £30,000 to £35,000, with premium specifications reaching £50,000 to over £100,000. However, the total cost of ownership often favours factory methods. Traditional projects frequently experience cost overruns (47.56% report increases of 20% or more). Factory construction offers greater price certainty. Superior thermal performance reduces ongoing energy costs. Better build quality reduces long-term maintenance.

My suggestion: When comparing quotes, ask about what is included in the headline price and what might add to it during construction. A factory-built quote should have fewer potential variables. Ask to see previous projects from any company you are considering—a good factory-built specialist will show you a range of designs, not identical boxes repeated across different properties.

Where This Is All Heading

The UK construction industry is changing, slowly but definitively.

The global modular construction market is projected to reach $207.82 billion by 2033, growing at 8.2% annually. Europe holds 45% market share, with the UK as a leading adopter. The UK government’s target of 1.5 million new homes by 2029 is driving significant investment in modern methods of construction.

£20.78bn
UK prefab market projected by 2028
£3.6bn
NHS modular buildings framework
£2.5bn
Homes England modular housing scheme
8.2%
Annual growth in global modular construction

The NHS is expanding its modular buildings framework. Homes England has launched a £2.5 billion modular housing scheme. Major housebuilders are investing in factory capacity. The direction of travel is clear.

For individual homeowners, this means factory-built construction is no longer an outlier choice. It is increasingly the informed choice, backed by data, driven by genuine advantages, and delivered by specialists who have refined their processes over years of development.

Making Your Decision

I am not suggesting that factory-built construction is right for every project or every homeowner. Traditional building has its place, particularly for complex renovations integrated deeply into existing structures.

But for a new orangery, conservatory, or garden room? For homeowners who value quality, want predictable timelines and costs, and prefer not to live in chaos for months? The case for factory construction has become compelling.

The Data Supports It

  • 67% less energy used during construction
  • 90% less waste compared to traditional methods
  • 50% faster installation timelines
  • 80% reduction in on-site labour and disruption
  • 55% lower heating costs over the structure’s lifetime
  • Greater price certainty versus 47.56% of traditional projects with 20%+ overruns

The industry is moving towards it. And the experience of actually living through the process favours it dramatically.

At Room Outside, we have built our modular construction process over years, refining methods, investing in precision, and learning what actually matters to the homeowners across London and the South East who trust us with their projects. We would be happy to discuss whether this approach might suit what you have in mind.

No obligation. No pressure. Just an honest conversation about whether a factory-engineered extension might be the better way to add the space you are looking for.

FAQ: Factory-Built Extensions in the UK

What is a factory-built extension?

A factory-built extension is a precision-engineered home addition manufactured in a climate-controlled factory environment rather than constructed entirely on site. Components are built to millimetre tolerances, then delivered substantially complete for rapid installation. This method achieves 67% less energy use during construction, 90% less waste, and 50% faster installation compared to traditional methods.

Is a factory-built extension just cheap prefab?

No. Modern factory-built extensions use premium materials: engineered timber, architectural glass, high-specification fittings. They are designed individually for each property. The factory environment allows for precision that site-based construction cannot match. The UK modular construction market is now valued at £1.26 billion for panelised systems alone—mainstream construction, not a budget alternative.

Can factory-built extensions be customised?

Absolutely. Factory production does not mean standardisation. Each extension is designed specifically for its site, considering the architecture of your existing property, orientation, aspect, and your requirements. The design process works the same as traditional construction—the difference is in how that design gets built, not whether it is bespoke.

How long does factory-built installation take?

Factory-built extensions can be installed 50% faster than traditional builds, with on-site time often reduced to days rather than weeks. Traditional construction takes 12-16 weeks on site. With factory methods, the majority of work happens elsewhere while your life continues normally, then your extension arrives substantially complete for rapid installation.

Does factory construction cost more?

Initial quotes are typically comparable to equivalent traditional construction. However, the total cost of ownership often favours factory methods: greater price certainty (47.56% of traditional projects have 20%+ overruns), superior thermal performance reducing energy costs, and better build quality reducing long-term maintenance.

What about planning permission?

Planning regulations apply identically regardless of construction method. Permitted development rights work the same way. Full planning applications follow the same process. The planning authority cares about design, scale, and impact—not whether your extension was assembled on site or in a factory.

Is factory construction better for the environment?

Yes. According to WRAP, modular construction reduces waste by up to 90%. Factory-built structures use 67% less energy during construction and can be 15% more energy-efficient in operation. Transport emissions are reduced by approximately 30% because extensions arrive substantially complete in a single delivery rather than requiring dozens of material deliveries.

What areas does Room Outside serve?

Room Outside designs and builds factory-engineered extensions from our West Sussex base, serving homeowners across London and the South East including West Sussex, Surrey, Kent, Greater London, Hampshire, East Sussex, Essex, Berkshire, and Dorset.

Discover the Factory-Built Difference

For homeowners who value quality, want predictable timelines and costs, and prefer not to live in chaos for months, factory-built construction delivers a fundamentally better experience.

roomoutsideuk
17th December, 2025

Glass Extensions Surrey | What Homeowners Need to Know 2025 | Room Outside

What Surrey Homeowners Should Know Before Commissioning a Glass Extension | Room Outside

What Surrey Homeowners Should Know Before Commissioning a Glass Extension

Expert guide to Surrey’s unique planning landscape, realistic budgets, and what actually adds value to your property in 2025.

📋 The Short Answer

Before commissioning a glass extension in Surrey, you need to understand three things: (1) whether your property falls within the 73% of Surrey designated as Green Belt, which affects what you can build; (2) whether Permitted Development rights apply (most conservatories under 4m don’t need planning permission); and (3) budget expectations—with average Surrey property prices at £587,000, quality glass extensions typically cost £40,000-£120,000+ depending on specification.

So You’re Thinking About a Glass Extension in Surrey?

Let’s be honest: you’ve probably already scrolled through Pinterest boards, saved a dozen Instagram posts, and imagined morning coffee in a light-flooded kitchen-diner. The vision is clear. But somewhere between the dream and the reality, questions start multiplying.

Will I need planning permission? How much should I actually budget? Is my Edwardian terrace in Guildford even suitable? What about my 1930s semi in Woking that backs onto Green Belt?

These aren’t hypothetical concerns. After forty years of building glass extensions across Surrey—from Farnham to Reigate, Epsom to Dorking—we’ve heard them all. This guide answers the questions Surrey homeowners actually ask, with specific information relevant to properties in this county.

Because Surrey isn’t like anywhere else. It’s the second most expensive county in England (average price £587,000). It has more Green Belt than almost anywhere—73% of the county. And one quarter sits within the Surrey Hills National Landscape, with its own planning considerations.

Your glass extension project needs to account for all of this. Here’s how.

The Surrey Planning Landscape: What Makes This County Different

Before we discuss designs, materials, or budgets, let’s address the elephant in the room: can you actually build what you want?

Green Belt: 73% of Surrey Is Protected

Surrey’s Metropolitan Green Belt isn’t a single park—it’s a planning designation that covers nearly three-quarters of the county. In practical terms:

  • Woking Borough: approximately 70% Green Belt
  • Guildford Borough: 24,040 hectares of Green Belt (most in Surrey)
  • Mole Valley: extensive coverage protecting countryside character
  • Epsom and Ewell: smallest Green Belt area (1,560 hectares) but still significant

The good news: Green Belt doesn’t prevent home extensions. Permitted Development rights still apply in most cases. But councils follow a general ‘50% rule’—extensions shouldn’t increase the original house size by more than 50% in area and volume, and must have minimal visual impact on the landscape.

Surrey Hills National Landscape: A Quarter of the County

The Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (now officially a ‘National Landscape’) stretches from Farnham in the west to Oxted in the east, including the chalk slopes of the North Downs and the wooded Greensand Hills around Haslemere.

If your property falls within the Surrey Hills:

  • Permitted Development rights are more restricted for rear extensions
  • Design must conserve and enhance ‘natural and scenic beauty’
  • Local materials and styles are strongly encouraged (Bargate stone, clay tiles)
  • The Surrey Hills Board provides design guidance and may comment on applications

Conservation Areas and Listed Buildings

Every Surrey borough has Conservation Areas—from Guildford’s medieval town centre to Reigate’s Victorian suburbs. Properties within these areas face additional restrictions:

  • No Permitted Development for side extensions
  • No cladding of exterior walls
  • No rear extensions beyond one storey under PD rights
  • Design must preserve or enhance the Conservation Area’s character

Listed buildings require Listed Building Consent for almost any alteration—including internal works. This isn’t a barrier to beautiful glass extensions, but it does require specialist knowledge and early engagement with your local conservation officer.

Do You Actually Need Planning Permission?

Here’s something that surprises many Surrey homeowners: most conservatories and single-storey glass extensions can be built without planning permission under Permitted Development rights.

The Permitted Development Rules (2025)

Your glass extension qualifies as Permitted Development if it meets ALL of the following:

Requirement What This Means
Maximum projection from rear wall 4m for detached houses, 3m for semi/terraced
Maximum height 4m at highest point (3m if within 2m of boundary)
Garden coverage Cannot cover more than 50% of original garden area
Position Must be at rear of property (not front or side facing highway)
Materials Must use similar materials to existing house
Eaves and ridge Cannot be higher than the existing house

When You Definitely Need Planning Permission

  • Your property is a listed building
  • You’re in a Conservation Area and want a side extension or two-storey rear
  • Your project exceeds PD size limits
  • Previous extensions have already used your PD allowance
  • Your property is a flat or maisonette (no PD rights)
  • PD rights were removed by condition on original planning consent (common in 1970s+ builds)

Our recommendation: Even if you believe you qualify for Permitted Development, consider obtaining a Lawful Development Certificate (LDC) from your local council (£103). This provides legal certainty that’s valuable when selling your property.

Realistic Budgeting for Surrey Property Owners

Let’s talk money—because Surrey prices aren’t like anywhere else, and neither should your expectations be.

The Surrey Premium

With average property prices at £587,000 (and significantly higher in Elmbridge, Waverley, and parts of Guildford), your glass extension is protecting a substantial asset. Cutting corners on specification makes no financial sense when:

  • A quality extension adds 5-10% to property value (RICS, Savills)
  • Poor-quality builds can actually devalue your home
  • Surrey buyers are discerning—estate agents report that dated conservatories are now liabilities

What Should You Expect to Pay?

Project Type Budget Range Notes
Standard conservatory (uPVC) £15,000-£30,000 Entry point, 20-35yr lifespan
Premium conservatory (aluminium) £30,000-£50,000 40-50yr lifespan, slimmer frames
Orangery (brick/glass hybrid) £40,000-£70,000 Ideal for period properties
Contemporary glass extension £50,000-£90,000 Minimal frames, max glazing
Bespoke glass box / structural glass £80,000-£150,000+ Architectural statement pieces

Hidden Costs to Budget For

  • Structural engineer fees: £500-£1,500
  • Building Regulations application: £200-£500
  • Planning application (if required): £206 for householder applications
  • Party Wall surveyor (if applicable): £700-£1,000 per surveyor
  • Landscaping/making good: 5-10% of project cost
  • Blinds/climate control: £2,000-£8,000 depending on specification

What Surrey Property Buyers Actually Want

If you’re thinking about resale value (and in Surrey, you should be), here’s what local estate agents tell us buyers are looking for:

Year-round usability

The old polycarbonate conservatory that’s freezing in winter and sweltering in summer? That’s now seen as a negative. Buyers want spaces that work 365 days a year.

Seamless kitchen-diner flow

The extension that opens directly onto an existing kitchen—creating one large, light-filled entertaining space—commands more premium than a separate ‘added on’ room.

Quality over size

A beautifully executed 3m x 4m extension with slim aluminium frames and quality glazing will add more value than a cheap 5m x 5m box.

The Process: From First Idea to Completion

Here’s what a typical glass extension project looks like with Room Outside:

Phase Timeline Key Activities
Phase 1: Design Consultation 2-4 weeks Initial site visit, planning constraints review, preliminary designs, budget discussions
Phase 2: Planning & Permissions 4-12 weeks Permitted Development assessment, Building Regulations drawings, structural calculations
Phase 3: Construction 6-12 weeks Groundworks, structural work, frame installation, glazing, internal finishes

Frequently Asked Questions: Surrey Glass Extensions

Do I need planning permission for a conservatory in Surrey?

Most conservatories do not need planning permission under Permitted Development rights. Your project qualifies if it extends no more than 4m from the rear wall (detached houses) or 3m (semi/terraced), is under 4m high, and covers less than 50% of your garden.

How much does a glass extension cost in Surrey?

Quality glass extensions in Surrey typically cost £30,000-£90,000, with bespoke structural glass projects reaching £150,000+. Standard uPVC conservatories start around £15,000-£30,000. Factor in an additional £3,000-£5,000 for professional fees.

Can I build a glass extension if my Surrey property is in the Green Belt?

Yes. Green Belt status doesn’t prevent home extensions—Permitted Development rights still apply. With 73% of Surrey designated as Green Belt, most extensions are built successfully within these areas.

Will a glass extension add value to my Surrey home?

A well-designed glass extension typically adds 5-10% to Surrey property values (RICS, Savills). On a £587,000 average Surrey property, that’s £29,000-£58,000. However, quality matters for maintaining value.

What are the restrictions for glass extensions in Surrey Hills AONB?

Properties in the Surrey Hills National Landscape have more restricted Permitted Development rights and stricter design requirements. Extensions must conserve and enhance ‘natural and scenic beauty’ with local materials encouraged.

How do I choose between aluminium, timber, and uPVC frames?

For contemporary Surrey homes, aluminium offers the slimmest sightlines and longest lifespan (40-50 years). For period properties or Conservation Areas, timber may be required for planning approval. uPVC provides the best value but with bulkier frames.

Ready to Discuss Your Surrey Project?

Our design consultations are free, with no obligation. We’ll visit your property, discuss your vision, review any planning constraints, and provide honest guidance on what’s achievable within your budget.

roomoutsideuk
07th May, 2025

Timber vs uPVC: Which is Best for Your Glass Extension?

When planning a premium glass extension, one of the most common questions we hear is: “Should I choose timber or uPVC for the frame?” In this article, we’ll explore the key differences between timber vs uPVC, so you can decide which material best suits your home, lifestyle, and long-term investment.

Both options have their strengths, and the right choice often depends on your priorities in terms of style, performance, and maintenance.


The Beauty and Character of Timber

Timber has long been the go-to material for traditional and heritage-style homes. Its natural look adds warmth, charm, and timeless character to any property.

Benefits of Timber Frames:

  • Aesthetics: Nothing matches the organic beauty of real wood.
  • Customisation: Timber can be painted or stained in a wide range of colours.
  • Longevity: When properly maintained, timber can last for decades.
  • Eco-Friendly: Sustainably sourced timber is a renewable material with a low carbon footprint.

However, timber does require ongoing maintenance to keep it in top condition. Regular repainting and protection from moisture are essential to avoid warping or decay.


The Smart Efficiency of uPVC

uPVC (unplasticised polyvinyl chloride) is a popular alternative, especially for homeowners looking for a low-maintenance, thermally efficient solution. But not all uPVC is made equal.

At Room Outside, we only use top-grade uPVC systems engineered for long-term durability, superior insulation, and a flawless finish.

Benefits of High-Quality uPVC Frames:

  • Low Maintenance: No painting or staining required.
  • Durability: Premium uPVC resists fading, warping, and discolouration (unlike cheap alternatives which may yellow and crack).
  • Energy Efficient: Excellent thermal performance helps lower energy bills.
  • Cost-Effective: Generally more affordable than hardwood timber.
  • Contemporary Styling: Clean lines and modern finishes suit a wide range of architectural styles.

What About Cheaper uPVC?

While budget-friendly uPVC might seem appealing, it often fails to perform over time. Lower-grade materials tend to yellow, become brittle, and can significantly reduce the lifespan and appearance of your glass structure.

By contrast, the premium uPVC we use is designed to maintain its integrity and visual appeal for decades with minimal upkeep.


So, Which Should You Choose?

If your priority is a classic, traditional look and you don’t mind some occasional maintenance, timber is a beautiful, heritage-rich option. For those who prefer modern styling, easy upkeep, and excellent insulation, high-quality uPVC is a smart, reliable choice.

Either way, Room Outside offers expertly crafted options tailored to your preferences and built to last.


Ready to explore your perfect glass extension?

Download our brochure today and start planning your dream space with Room Outside.

Download our brochure today and start planning your dream space with Room Outside.

https://www.roomoutside.com/request-a-brochure-conservatories-orangeries-glass-box-extensions/